Saturday, July 14, 2007

Part 14: Battle of the Bulge

After I returned to Europe, I had a few weekends to burn before Amanda and Jacob came back. Originally, I leapt at the idea of cheap trips I could take better as one than as three; my thoughts first took me to Norway, then to Normandy, maybe to Prague, Zurich, or Copenhagen.

Several colleagues at work told me about the overnight trains from Duisdorf, Germany to just about everywhere. It seemed like a good idea because I could leave Friday night, come back Monday morning, spend Friday and Sunday nights on the train (i.e. eliminate two hotel expenses), and basically give myself two full days in the city. Great idea right? The only problem with these trips is they get really pricey unless you plan them well in advance. Part of the intrigue of this trip was not planning in advance --- so, I bagged that idea and looked elsewhere.

I kept looking for the “perfect” trip, but my aversion to spending money and my desire to see something far away eroded all real opportunities. With all options basically exhausted, I decided to make a driving trip to Luxembourg.
The trip started on Saturday morning because work ended too late on Friday and I didn’t want to drive while exhausted. So early in the morning, armed only with an I-Pod, our GPS, and a few clothes, I jumped in the car and blindly followed the GPS directions toward Luxembourg.

Luxembourg is the heart and soul of the Ardennes Forest and most recently well-known for hosting the “Battle of the Bulge”. It is a really interesting little country, because it is so little. Approximately 70% the size of Rhode Island, Luxembourg has been nestled between Europe’s superpowers for ~1000 years.



It is an independent monarchy with a parliamentary democracy; basically, a democracy like the US or UK, but with a Duke (i.e. King) that acts as an advisor to the government. The Duke follows a royal bloodline just like Queen Elizabeth, William, and Harry…

Before I left, I did a little web-surfing and found that the best WWII museum in Luxembourg is in Diekirch. Diekirch is a sleepy little town on the northern half of Luxembourg just passed Bastogne, Belgium (site of key Bulge battle on Band of Brothers).

The museum was a little hard to find; I expected otherwise. From the outside it looks like an abandoned warehouse, but on the inside it was packed full of WWII artifacts and full-size dioramas.



I spent around 3 hours in the museum walking around and listening to the audio tour. All of the artifacts were impressive and the dioramas were really good. The scenarios pulled together all different aspects of the life: not just the battles, but also the supply chain, campfire scenes, and other aspects of daily life during the war.

After Diekirch, I decided to make my way to Luxembourg City. Friends of ours told us that this city is really unique. They were right. Luxembourg City is different because of the geographical layout. It is completely surrounded by deep / steep gorges - like an island without water.
Only accessible via bridges, the city provides immediate insight into why Luxembourg is still an independently sovereign country. Over the years, invading armies could not penetrate past the ravines into the city center. When they tried the people would retract to the city center, defend the bridges, and hide in the casemates below.
Casemates are caves dug beneath the city in the 1700’s to help defend the city. Today, they are nothing more than a glimpse to the past and a lucrative tourist attraction.
My last stop was to the US and German cemeteries dedicated to the fallen soldiers at the bulge. The American cemetery very closely resembled Arlington. Thousands of bright white crosses perfectly aligned across a green field of grass. I am proud of the way the cemetery looks, what it stands for, and what it means to people that visit. Many of my co-workers have visited the US Cemeteries (both Normandy and Ardennes), and they are all impressed.

General Patton is also buried in this cemetery. For those that have studied the history (or seen Band of Brothers), Patton commanded the 3rd armored division that broke the German lines and rescued the 101st Airborne division. Unfortunately, immediately following the war and one day before he was scheduled to come back to the US, Patton was in a car accident, paralyzed from the waist down, and died of a brain embolism the next day. He was buried beside his soldiers in this cemetery.

The German cemetery was very different. It was empty, dark, shaded and dreary. It didn’t look like many people actually visited the site. Sad really...

After the cemeteries and a slight detour to France for lunch, I started my 4 hour trip back to Voorburg. In total is was 4 countries in 36 hrs --- too much really, but a good story in the end. It was nice to see Luxembourg, but not so cool to travel by myself… I will have to go again with Amanda and Jacob.