Monday, March 9, 2009

Part 48: A brilliant vacation

We still don’t know when we are coming home, but at one point along the spectrum of unpredictable events, I was told we would be moving home in Q2-2009. With this in mind, Amanda and I decided to make the most of Q1 and try to end our experience with a final blowout vacation: the Mediterranean cruise.

We planned it for March to be sure (as if that is possible) to still be in Europe for the trip. I know my Father-in-Law will disagree, but we believed we earned another vacation for enduring two and a half years in a foreign country. I think his official response was “Wow, that’s different! You guys are going on another vacation.” Whatever… We did it anyway.

The planning for this trip actually got started after I casually pitched the idea to Jason and Terri (two friends from Illinois) on Skype. They are big travelers (been to more places than us) and are tons of fun to hang out with. Little did I know that our conversation would hit jackpot. Not only did they immediately jump on board, by the following Monday they had already researched all the options and found the winning cruise. We were set – no work, good company, and a great vacation planned - just 48hrs after pitching the idea.

The core vacation basically consisted of an 11 day cruise starting and ending in Barcelona. We decided to extend it a bit by arriving two days early and J/T extended even further by coming to our house (in Holland) 5 days prior to the cruise start. To give an idea of J/T’s first few days in Europe, by the time we reached Barcelona, they had been in four countries in 4 days. Ahh, travelling Europe Americano style.

The cruise itself was a completely new concept for Amanda and me. I had been on one about 20 years earlier, but to be honest, not many of the details are still with me. Jason and Terri are cruise experts and they guided us through the process.

Days 1-3: Holland, Germany, and Belgium, oh my!
Jason and Terri arrived on schedule and fulfilled their expected schedule with perfection. They carried Rick Steve’s to each spot and didn’t let sleep deprivation get in the way. Amsterdam was first, with special stops at Anne Frank, Dam Square, Canal Tour, and the Red Light District. They made it home at around 7pm and still had enough energy for Amanda’s homemade pasta. Up early the next day, they borrowed our car and headed toward Germany. They followed our advice and hit the Cologne Cathedral in the morning and Burg Eltz in the afternoon. Again with our car on Friday, they rounded out the schedule with a jolly trip to Brugge for a great Flemish meal and Belgium waffles and even made it back in time for a fine dine at Noony’s in Voorburg.

We purposely scheduled our Saturday flight to Barcelona in the evening in order to give everyone enough time to mentally and physically relax and prepare for the 2-week trip. It turned out to be a good idea because we all had a few last minute “must-do’s” to finish up that morning. The most complicated of which was optimizing our baggage weight to the airline’s prescribed limitations – remember RyanAir to Stockholm? I wasn’t about to get caught in that fiscal gauntlet again. Before we did anything though, we headed out to the morning market to pick up some breakfast and lunch. As expected, J/T were huge fans of the appleflaps and stroopwafels.

Day 4: Getting to Barcelona – the trek begins
At 3pm we headed off to the bus stop to make our public transport trek to Schiphol. I suspect it was a little nerve racking for J/T to (1) take public transport to the airport, and (2) rely on us to get them there. Nonetheless, we managed fine and got there in record time. For me, it was a unique experience to get to the airport in enough time to not be worried about making the flight (remember Berlin?).

The flight went off as expected; all cattle were herded into the plane and packed like sardines into the seats. We did arrive on time, with all baggage, and Jacob behaved marvelously (as always --- mostly).

The last time we ran off to Barcelona with the Giddings, we opted to take the public transport system to the hotel. It was one of those “penny-wise, pound-foolish” moments. As it turned out we saved 10 Euros on the cab fare, but wasted 2hrs navigating the subways with four bags. I don’t know what it is about the subways in Barcelona, but I personally think they are the worst… Most people disagree with me, but there are more ups / downs in that system than anywhere else in Europe.

Needless to say, we happily spent 20 Euros / per family to cab it over to the hotel.

The hotel location turned out to be perfect. It is located just off the square in front of the big Barcelona Cathedral and minutes from Las Ramblas. Terri did a great job with that recommendation. Upon arrival around 9pm, we freshened up in the hotel and then headed out for dinner – perfect timing for the Spanish. I guess we chalked this one up as a cultural learning experience, but no restaurant even thinks about starting dinner until after 8:30.

We opted for Tapas (gotta do it in Barcelona) and Jason found a good spot just a couple blocks from the hotel. It was very busy, very loud, and very good. It looked like the waiting line was long, but the slug of people turned out to be smokers banned from the restaurant from new Spanish legislation (I love that law). After ordering, we knew it was going to be a good trip because everyone shared samplers off of their main selection. We ended dinner at 11pm and headed home for the night. By the way, Jacob lasted the entire evening without any problems. He is truly remarkable – I don’t know how we got so lucky, but he is the most flexible baby of all time.
Day 5: The calm before the vacation
We met the next morning and did all the stuff you’re supposed to do in Barcelona: Las Ramblas, the harbor, and Gaudi. We started with Las Ramblas and followed the Rick Steve’s walk exactly.

We saw the birds (Jacob especially liked this area), the flowers (more for Amanda), and ended at the Columbus monument. The weather was beautiful (Amanda and I have had great luck in Barcelona both times) and it was a great people-watching walk.



At the harbor, Amanda and Terri found a common attraction to flea market shopping where they both picked up some cool jewelry that neither will likely wear… I also banked a few points by discretely picking up a trinket that complimented Amanda’s formal night dress (it was given before the formal dinner and, by the way, matched her dress perfectly).
We ate on the harbor at a joint that cost way too much money. But, the view was nice and the food was good. We topped it off with crepes and ice cream for dessert (while we didn’t know it at the time, desserts would become a common theme / event on our cruise).



After lunch we found our way to the Gaudi Cathedral to see what had been completed in the last 1.5 years. Hmmm, not much more. It was still nice to walk through the cathedral to reacquaint ourselves with the unique genius of Gaudi’s creation and to gawk at its perfunctory color. It shocks me that they are still building this to his detailed specifications… Amazing!


After the church we headed over to Gaudi’s park: a new one for Amanda and I. It was highly recommended by a work colleague as “better than the cathedral”. He was wrong. The park was okay and there were some nice features, but like most overbilled events, it disappointed me. We did have a great view of the city – a perfect photo op.We grabbed a cab back to the hotel around 6pm and relaxed for a couple of hours prior to dinner at Amanda and I’s favorite from the last trip, Origins. This place was great because it specializes in Catalonian cuisine and gives a story around each dish: where it is from, how it was invented, who started it, etc. We made our reservation at 8:30pm and had a great meal. Jacob lasted through the entire night without any problems and the meal perfectly capped a great day.

Day 6: Almost there, almost there…
Monday started with the expectation that we would be loading on the boat by 10am.
Unfortunately, the boat didn’t open up until 3pm. This basically gave us an extra day in Barcelona that we didn’t expect to have. Under normal circumstances, this would be a good thing --- however, for Barcelona, all tourism basically shuts down on Monday.
So, to kill time prior to loading, we decided to make our way to Olympic park. If you recall, Barcelona hosted the 1992 Summer Olympics and like any city with that responsibility, they spent a ton of money building an Olympic park. What sets Barcelona aside from most is they dedicated an entire hill inside the town to the park. So, while it does seem a little abandoned now, it is still cool to wander through and see all the old venues. We also took a few minutes to check out an old fortress overlooking today’s city. And to our surprise, while at the top of the hill, we also got our first glimpse of our Cruise Liner, the Brilliance of the Seas.


It took us longer to visit the fortress and Olympic park than we expected so we had to rush a bit to get lunch and back to the hotel in time to catch our cab at 2:45pm. Our lunch stop still turned out to be a cool “pay by the toothpick” tapas joint where you walk through the buffet line and pick as many appetizers as you want, collect the toothpicks during the meal, and pay 2 Euros per toothpick at the end. It was good. After lunch we walked back to the hotel, snapping pictures along the way, and just enjoyed our final hours in Barcelona. Ironically enough, I like Barcelona more now, after our second trip than I did after the first. It must be like coffee and beer; it just grows on you. The weather was beautiful, it is a great walking city, and the food is delicious.

Day 6 continued (Day 1 of cruise): The boat – first impressions.
Before Terri shared her research with us, Amanda and I knew absolutely nothing about cruises. We talked to a few folks about it, but until you have actually cruised, you don’t really know. So, for us, this was a completely new experience.
When the taxi first pulled up to the port, I was in awe of size of the ship. I swiped a few ship stats from the web to put it into perspective. It includes: Length 962ft (293m), width 106ft (32m), and draft 27ft (8m). It can hold 90,000tons, 2500 people, and run 25 knots (29mph). There are over 10 restaurants on board, one services 24hrs / day, and room service is also always available. Tons of sporting events are available to everyone including volleyball, basketball, ping-pong, wall-climbing, shuffleboard, checkers / chess, miniature golf, virtual golf, and billiards. There are also two heated pools (indoor and outdoor) and one non-heated outdoor water park, a fitness facility, sauna, and running track. This ship is decked out.
The staterooms are bigger than we expected and offered plenty of space for 2 adults and 1 kiddo. Shoving 4 adults into one room would have been tough, but this was very manageable.
It is amazing how nice the ship still looks. Imagine a new group of 2500 people coming into your house every 11 days with no days in between for down time. Our house would be a disaster, but this ship looked very clean and very new on the first day we arrived. They even made time to wash every window in the ship --- now that is impressive. It literally shined like it was new.
But that’s not the best part. Royal Caribbean spends twice as much time on creating the right atmosphere as they did in building the boat. When you arrive everyone has a smile and is ready, willing, and working to make your life easy. They take your pictures all day long, change your room over twice a day, and schedule a wide range of events where everyone can find things to do. I felt genuinely welcome on their ship. I really think RC has their act together. They create a wonderfully organized week with an emphasis on elegance and casual comfort. I don’t know if everyone feels this way about their first cruise, but our first 6hrs were great.

Day 2: Full day at sea
Days at sea are relaxing. You wake up late (as late as Jacob will allow), you evenly spread your time between eating, napping, reading, gambling, and playing games. It is a good way to spend a couple of weeks.
We were just getting used to the boat so our judgment wasn’t quite fine tuned yet. As such, we spent way too much of our time “filling-up” in the restaurants. Seriously, it is impressive the amount of food they make available to you. You get three full-square meals and each one has multiple courses. I think we had desert 5 times the first day.
For the times in between eating, we spent our time swimming in the morning with Jacob and napping in the afternoon with Jacob. I entered a Texas Hold-em tournament and won (first ever). Jason, Terri, and I entered a volleyball tourney and brought home the silver medal (ok – there were only two teams). We watched a live “broadway” musical in the Pacifica theatre in the evening. It was a great day.

Day 3: Palermo
Sicily was our first excursion and highly anticipated because of the opportunity to get some Italian food. It was also a test to see if we needed to book excursions through Royal Caribbean or if we could do it on our own.
We left the boat around 7:30am (as soon as the gangway dropped) and started walking through the town. At first we brushed off the first impressions because it was too early in the day – probably fair. But then, after 2-3 hrs of walking around, we were totally fed up with the town and wanted to leave.
The town is filthy. Not only is there dog crap everywhere, graffiti on every site worth seeing, and gobs of traffic on narrow streets with single person-wide sidewalks, but the crime presence is suffocating. On every big street we thought we would be hit by a car and on every small street we thought we would be mugged by the mafia.
At one point, while wandering, we ran across an open-air market. Cool right? Well yes and no. There were some cool fruit and veggie stands, but they stood right next to the butchers carving up the morning’s kill. At one point we saw a guy filleting beef intestines and organs next to a guy with skinned goat’s heads on display. Gross.
There were a lot of verbal disagreements and so we got out pretty quickly. After leaving though, we ended up walking through an area that looked reminiscent of Afghanistan or war-torn Iraq. I think Terri summed it up by saying, “we need to leave now”.

The day wasn’t a complete bust as the Palermo Cathedral was really good. It was well-decorated on the outside and, according to a tour guide that we eavesdropped on, had a few good stories too. Also, after chatting with a few locals we picked up a couple of decent lunch recommendations, chose one, and had a good meal.
In the end though, the magnet we purchased was of a mafia gangster. It was the most fitting representation of Sicily that we found in our first excursion. We also decided that we wouldn’t waste anymore days without organized tours and booked excursions for Rhodes, Cyprus, and Malta that night.

Day 4: At sea again
After Palermo, I was beginning to wander if we should ever get off the boat. After all, our first excursion was a complete bust and when you stay on the boat you get tons of food and opportunities to win medals and money.
Our second full sea day was great. We hit the swimming pool in the morning, the blackjack tournament in the afternoon, and the show at night. I won the ping-pong tournament that day, Jason won the hot shots basketball competition, and between the two families we pulled down 6 medals.


Day 5: Athens
Outside of Egypt, this stop was the most anticipated of all. When I checked with colleagues at work, they indicated Athens was a good city to visit, but not even close to Rome. And, that one day would probably be enough to get a sense of everything. I won’t tell any of my Greek friends that.Before the cruise we booked a tour called Taste of Athens. It was a simple excursion which focused on the Acropolis and shopping. We left the boat around 8am and had a decent, not great, tour guide for the trip. Like most, she gave us the cliff notes version of Greek history on the bus. Traffic was pretty heavy so getting to the Acropolis took around an hour. But, once we got there it was pretty empty since it is still off-peak season.


The Acropolis is a pretty impressive site. It is the 2nd tallest peak in the city and holds the most well-known and best preserved ancient Greek archeological sites. You have to climb about 200 stairs to get to the top, but when you get there you find a forum of ancient buildings that included a Temple to Athena and an Ionian temple of Apteros Nike. The structures were built during the 5th century BC, the so-called Perikles Golden age. As far as sites go it was very reminiscent of the Roman Forum / Coliseum area and in really good shape. There is still a lot of reconstruction going on in the area and we actually got to see the workers reinstall a newly restored original block at the entrance. It was a good stop and we got a lot of good pictures. We didn’t have a ton of time here, but enough to see and do.



On the way to the shopping area, we made a stop at the track and field stadium used during the 2004 Olympics in Athens. It is also the site that hosted the first modern Olympics in 1896.


We reached the Placa shopping area around 11am. This area consists of narrow streets with lots of little shops. We browsed for some souvenirs and a lunch stop. We hit the jackpot at lunch. We were coerced into one of the restaurants with outdoor seating (mainly because Terri and Amanda paused a bit too long in front of it). The Greeks tend to be a little pushy but with good humor. The food was superb. We loaded up on gyros and tzatziki (Amanda’s favorite). We roamed through more stores on the way back to the buses and were on the boat by the 4:00 departure time.


We laid Jacob down for a late nap and met Jason and Terri back in the dining room for dinner at 6pm. Three courses later we headed to the theater for another show. I think the shows were the highlight for Jacob. Every day we heard about how the show was closed, but at night when the door opened, Jacob informed everyone that the “shows open”. Athens was a great stop. It really is amazing to see buildings from 2,500 years ago still standing in the middle of a modern city.

Day 6: Rhodes
When you sail into Rhodes it takes your breath away. This is one of those movie set looking places whose charm and history just bubbles over.
This was day 2 of our 4 excursions in a row, and we were ready for it. For the history buffs out there, Rhodes is the famous location for the Colossus. This is the giant statue that looked over the boats coming into the harbor and was considered as one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. When we arrived, we thought were going to find the foot of the Colossus for pictures (as indicated by all available online research), but quickly learned that the rendition was completely made up. The actual Colossus fell in 200AD(?) and was later bought and sold as scrap metal by an enterprising merchant 500 years later.

The tour guide for this one was great. He was a dry kind of guy that knew a lot and told the stories with a clever wit. By looking at him you would think he would put you to sleep, but then unexpectedly captured and held your attention.
Our first stop was an old monastery overlooking the capital below. It was made famous by holding a painting of the Virgin Mary that one of the disciples supposedly painted. However, after Rhodes fell to the Ottomans in 1523, the Knights of St. John took the relic and moved it around the world. It moved through Malta, Russia, and was lost for a couple of hundred years before turning up in Montenegro 15 years ago. While the Knights refuse to return the original, they did donate a copy to the site.

Today the site is largely just a tourist attraction with a great view. It is cool to see the site and get the pictures, but that was about it for me.

The next stop was going into the old downtown of Rhodes. This is where the fun really began.
Our guide took us through the streets and gave us the history of the town. There are still great buildings standing and 3 impressive moats surrounding the city. The best story he told was about how 300 Knights actually held 120,000 Persians outside the walls, convinced the Persians to retreat after several very costly failed attempts, but then fell when they were betrayed by someone on the inside.
When they fell, the Knights left the city and moved to Malta. This was very unfortunate for Rhodes because with their move so went the acclaim and a lot of future tourism money. Still though, the people of Rhodes are very proud (and should be) of their history.


We walked through the city for about 90 minutes and learned a bit more history about the place before going on our own for lunch and shopping. This town is normally completely deserted at this time of year until the tourist season jumps up into full gear, except when cruise ships come in. When the cruise ships dock and 2500 people descend on the city with bull’s-eyes on their backs, the shops open and start picking people off. For us it was great. While we didn’t particularly like the stuff to buy, it was still good to get the first class treatment.

There is a downside to it not being peak season. When a 15 minute rain storm moved through and washed most of the tourists back to the boat, the shops immediately started closing. We had to rush to get our trinkets and had only 20% of the original selection. And, when we sat down for lunch, we found the restaurant completely unprepared to serve; it was like they opened only for the afternoon.

It was still a good stop and aside from the 15 minute shower, we had great weather. We ended the excursion by walking around on our own and taking a few great pictures. That night we followed our normal routine of eat, game, eat, show, eat, game, sleep… Ahhh, you gotta love cruises.



Day 7: Cyprus
Cyprus is getting really deep into the Mediterranean. It is closer to Israel, Syria, and the West Bank than it is to Italy and closer to Africa than it is Athens. The deeper you get, the more dangerous it feels. And, while our chief concerns still center on Egypt, our feet were getting close to the fire with this excursion.
It turned out to be worthless worrying. Cyprus was tame.

As excursions go, this was a relatively short one. It was planned to start at 9:15am and end at 2:30pm. So, that left only five hours to see, do, and learn the country. Hardly enough time, but ok, that’s what we had. Our excursion took us to an archeological dig in Kourion, a 2500 year old temple to Apollo, and the small village of Omodos.
This was the third excursion in as many days and our schedule had kept us awake until nearly midnight every night. Needless to say, we were tired. As such, Amanda and I missed most of the historical backdrop to the tour by snoozing on the bus ride to Kourion. Lucky for us, Jacob stayed awake, so maybe he can fill in the details.


We arrived with military precision and started pushing our way toward the sites. It was a good stop as they had a fully functional original Greek amphitheatre, live excavation sites, and a great view of the sea. While we were there, a modeling shoot was going on. We have no idea who she was, but Amanda stole some poses from her that you’ll see in later pictures.
What is most interesting about places in this region of the world is the scale of “stuff” they find. There are literally thousands of active sites and even more that they know about, but haven’t started uncovering yet. Cyprus actually leaves the sites covered because they don’t have the money to (1) dig them up or (2) preserve them post-dig.


After Kourion, we headed to the Temple of Apollo. This was a lot more of the same, except it was over 4 thousand years old. Dude – that’s crazy. We learned a bit more (not worth mentioning) and had some good times for pictures. The highlight from this stop was the photo shoot pics from Amanda and Jacob. They were made for the camera.


Our last stop was at Odomos. This place houses the Church of the Holy Cross which contains two relics donated by Saint Helen (see Rome blog): a piece of the cross and a piece of rope that bound Christ’s hands. Neither was on display. We spent a little more time walking through the town for souvenir shopping, but didn’t find anything worth buying (that is a really bad sign too – everyone wanted to buy something to say we had been there). We did manage to buy their local bread (recommended by our guide) --- it was fresh baked and had a sugary top that was very tasty. That basically ended our excursion and we headed back toward the cruise ship.
The success of these excursions largely rises and falls with the tour guide. Unfortunately, in this case, we had an opinionated, nationalistic, loud-talking lunatic. Ok – that may be going a little too far, but if you listened to her exclusively, you would think that (1) all Turks were worthless barbarians, (2) the Brits polluted all the natural resources with their offensive military bases, and (3) the Russians were capitalistic pigs looking to put all Cyprusites into poverty. Give me a break – someone needed to tell the lady to stick to the facts and leave her opinions at the door. I think the British lady sitting behind me did just that.
I know there is a schism between most Greeks and Turks. It is there. You may as well accept it and move on. For me though, I know people on every continent and in hundreds of cities. The difference between a friend and foe has nothing to do with their race, religion, color or nationality and everything to do with the quality of their character. In general, if we could forgive the past and look toward the future, we would all be much happier.

Day 8: Egypt
Two weeks ago a bomb went off in an Egyptian bazaar in Cairo. Two days after that an angry local stabbed an American tourist in the face. Now, we are not ones to back away from an adventure because of rumors or the potential, hypothetical, or “could-be” events, but I admit my nerves were on edge the morning of our Egypt excursion.
For most, probably all, this was the main reason for booking this trip because the pyramids remain as mysterious today as they did 1000 years ago. We booked the day trip called “Classic Cairo”. This was a highly ambitious tour that started at 7:30am and ended at 9pm. It required ~6hrs in a bus and too little time at each stop, but you got to see 12 pyramids (including the three big ones), the Sphinx, a papyrus exhibit, and the fabled Cairo museum.


As luck would have it, our tour started by learning our guide was a PhD in Antiquities and passionate about her country’s history. She was the polar opposite replacement to our Cyprus tour guide and a very welcome teacher for the day.
As the busses promptly started toward our destination, Tina (the guide) started with the history lesson. Like most good guides, she totally reeled us in and had us hanging on every word. I believe I learned more in those first two hours than countless hours prior on the Discovery Channel and world history classes. I don’t want to (nor can I) retell the stories with the same detail and vigor that she did, but I want to give you a flavor for the types of things we learned.

Tidbits – about pyramids, royals, and other antiquities
(1) Pyramids were built to house only royalty. They started out as stacked blocks, but then transformed into what we see today. They used to be covered with limestone to smooth the edges, but that was taken during later building projects.

(2) Most pyramids were robbed shortly after being built. King Tutankhamen’s grave was only left untouched because the grave above caved in and blocked the entrance. By all accounts, King Tut is a very, very minor king. He is only the most famous today because his tomb was left intact.

(3) Non-royals are buried in square tombs.

(4) All pyramids are on the west side of the Nile. The west side was for death and the east for life. Everyone lived on the east side. This is because the sun rose from the east and set in the west.

(5) Pyramids were later replaced by underground tombs in the Valley of the Kings in Luxor. This was an attempt to hide the treasures - it didn’t really work. Queen’s pyramids are built right next to the King’s pyramids. They are notably smaller. I don’t know how they choose which of the queens to bury. Afterall, King Remises II had 176 children; I doubt it was from the same queen.

We arrived at the pyramids around 11am and the tour guide said we had 45 minutes to mill around. Forty-five minutes? You have got to be kidding me. It takes me longer to wake up in the morning, let alone sufficiently tour the 3 great pyramids. Nevertheless we were off and made the best of it.

45 minutes remaining.

Upon exiting the bus we were slammed with a great wave of capitalist proprietors. They hit us with everything: camel rides, papyrus bookmarks, authentic Arab headdresses, etc. Everything that could be sold, was sold. They played a few tricks too. They say, “no pay, no pay, is gift”, but then tell you, you took the service and must pay. They also offer to put on the headdresses for “no charge” and then say, “You opened the package and you must pay”. Thank goodness our guide warned us prior to arrival. We did notice quite a few suckers, though.

41 minutes remaining.

We avoided all of the marketers and headed (ran) to the north side of the biggest pyramid for pictures because we noticed a lot of people actually climbing on the pyramid. We made it there in 10 minutes and probably snapped 200 pictures between the two of us. A bit of an overkill, but when the time is short and memory is long, you snap, snap, snap.

31 minutes remaining.
We made it there and did climb the pyramid. It was surreal. I mean you know going in that the pyramids are huge, but when you actually see them, stand by them, and climb them they get even bigger. Each block on the pyramid is at least 3 feet tall, 5 feet wide and who knows how deep. When you get up 2-3 layers and look down, it is a little haunting. After all, there weren’t any guard rails and one slip could lead to a quick end.

25 minutes remaining.
While on the pyramid, one of the Arab kids (16-18 years old) asked to take Jacob’s picture. We obliged. He also asked to hold Jacob. We declined. Without asking, he and his girlfriend each managed to sneak in and kiss Jacob on the cheek. Weird. I guess a blond haired, blue-eyed, cutie-pie like him is unusual in this area of the world.
20 minutes remaining.
We then sprinted toward the second pyramid (the one with the limestone still on the cap), dodged a few more salesmen, a corridor heavily soiled with camel poop, and snapped more pictures. It was a mad dash. From the bottom, the second pyramid looks just like its bigger cousin, but is distinguished by the remaining limestone cap at the top. When the pyramids were first completed each was completely covered with limestone; we can only imagine what it looked like, but I bet it was cool.

12 minutes remaining.
We headed to the end of the 2nd pyramid trying to remember if there was a 3rd. There was; it was just shielded by the 2nd as we navigated between the first two. We rattled off another 50 pictures with every imaginable angle and zoom and posed for few final family shots.
8 minutes remaining.

We were still at least 5 minutes from the bus (brisk walk) and didn’t really know a good way to get there. I took Jacob and started hustling. Amanda and Terri followed me while posing a time or two more for Jason. Jason eventually split from A/T and found an alternate route back to the bus. Tick, tick, tick.
3 minutes remaining.

I made it to where the bus was supposed to be, but it isn’t there.

2 minutes remaining.

Amanda, Terri, and Jason all converge and inform me I am standing right by the bus. Safe.
1 minute to spare.
We loaded into the bus and quickly drove over to the post card shot station where everyone stops to get the perfect picture of the 3 pyramids. Amanda stayed behind to change JT’s diaper and J/T and I moved out. Jason and Terri pushed through another aggressive salesman while I posed for the security squad; I think they have done this before.
After we left the site we drove another 3 minutes down to the Sphinx for another 30 minute stop.

Honestly, for me, this was too much time. I would have rather stayed longer at the pyramids and done a “drive by” of the Sphinx. Nonetheless, we stopped, got our pictures (Amanda stole inspirations from the security team), and bugged out on time.
It was too short, but still a really cool stop. I think it hit me on the way home how unique of an experience this was and how lucky we are to be able to afford this lifestyle. At one point, I turned to Amanda and said “you know, life is pretty good right now… I hope it stays this way”.

We then drove off for souvenir shopping at a “guide recommended” locale. It was ok, but the stuff sold by street vendors was a lot cheaper. I suspect they organize it this way to keep people better on schedule during the mad dash through the pyramids. At that same stop we also hit a papyrus institute which was a paper making seminar and papyrus shop. This was really cool. Our teacher was fun and we found a great souvenir for the wall back home.

Tidbits – Other
(1) Egyptians believed that when they faced judgment their heart would be weighed against an ostrich feather. If the heart was heavier (heavy with sin), they would go to the “underworld”. If the heart was lighter they would go to heaven.
(2) Pigeon (flying rats as Terri likes to call them) are an Egyptian delicacy and they have pigeon houses erected all over the country for breeding. Yes, it is true. Egypt actually wants more pigeons in their country.
(3) Unfinished buildings – there is a tax rule in Egypt that says you don’t have to pay property taxes until the building is finished. Therefore, everyone leaves the buildings unfinished indefinitely. Throughout all of Egypt you will see buildings with rebar still sticking out of the top.
Tidbits – about Arabic culture
(1) Traditional Muslims require woman to wear the headdresses. When a woman is married (i.e. taken), they are required to wear only black when in public. You see less veils in the big cities.
(2) Unless work or school moves them away, most Egyptians live at home until they get married. It isn’t uncommon to live there until 30-35 years old.
Tidbits – about papyrus
(1) Paper process consists of pealing the papyrus, cutting into strips, soaking to remove the sugar, beating (with a hammer), rolling (with a pin), weaving (like a basket), and pressing. The result is a flexible piece of paper that will last thousands of years.
(2) Papyrus was chosen because of the triangular stem (symbolic reasons) and the flowery top.
Our final stop was the Cairo museum. This was one that Jason and I were really excited about because it had the artifacts from King Tut’s tomb. When we arrived, however, we were scared. We entered through heavily secured gates and multiple guards were standing behind movable, bullet-proof riot control stations as secondary stops. We also saw several “heated arguments” on the ride over. We couldn’t tell if this was their way of communicating or if they were fighting, but one involved a man slamming a woman’s head into the hood of his car. I doubt that one was a casual conversation. We made it into the museum without incident and started the tour. This is clearly our guide’s element because you could see her face light up when she started talking. She gave us a quick rundown of the museum and hit the highlights with good stories and details. Jacob was sleeping so it made it much easier to navigate the crowds.

What surprised us the most was the layout and quality of the museum. I normally judge a museum by the quality of artifacts. Example: Compare the Louvre to Luxembourg City and the artifact quality will be obvious. You know immediately why the Louvre is the Louvre. This is where it got weird for us. When you judge the quality of the artifacts in Cairo, it is awesome - probably second to none on Egyptian history. But, the museum itself was disgraceful. The organization was non-existent, there was no air conditioning, only 10% of the pieces had descriptions, only one item had security sensors, there weren’t any audio tour guides, and the gift shop was very small and disappointing. The museum was literally falling apart.
I asked the guide about this and she agreed, but defended it by saying it was over 100 years old and a new one is being erected by the pyramids. I also asked if she thought that more countries would return the artifacts when the new building is complete and she said “probably”.
In each country we visited on this trip, there were side-line disparaging remarks made by each of the tour guides. In this trip, she mentioned several times how countries should return what is rightfully Egypt’s. In one sense, I agree. Why shouldn’t Egypt get the prized possessions back from previous battles lost? On the other hand, why should the Louvre or British and Berlin museums give back the exhibits when (1) the artifacts won’t get as much traffic and (2) they won’t be as well-looked after? If Egypt wants to seriously contend with the major museum circuit (which they could and should), they need to shape up their infrastructure.
We left the museum around 6pm and started our trek home. We were happy to have had the opportunity to see, but also glad to be getting back. So 2.5hrs and countless songs/games (for Jacob) later, we arrived to the cruise ship in time (18 minutes prior to the ship leaving) for sailing.
Day 9: A day at sea…
Since we just completed 4 excursions in 4 days and we were completely wiped out, so for Tuesday, we decided to take it easy. So we spread the time fairly evenly between eating, sleeping, sports activities, and gambling.
Amanda, Jacob, and I hit the pool in the morning. Jason and I won the 3-on-3 Basketball tournament. Jason got second in the Texas Hold-em tournament. We all went to the evening show to watch the Graffiti Classics group (watch for them next year – Oprah just sponsored them) and then played Euchre until 11:30pm. Then Jason and I capped it off with a little more Texas Hold-em in a cash game.

Do days get better than this?


Day 10: Malta
We experienced the full gamut of highs and lows with excursions on this cruise. And, with only 4hrs at this port, we didn’t have high expectations for Malta. We were completely, totally, shockingly surprised. Malta is a paradise.
We actually didn’t dock until 2pm for this one, so the entire morning was spent on the ship. We met for breakfast at 9am and then headed off to the Hot Shots Basketball Tourney where Jason schooled the ship and took the gold medal and I stunk it up and finished 4th (I blame my poor shooting on my bad ankles). We then played our luck at bingo and lost $44 per family in 30 minutes flat (nice). Afterwards, we headed up for an outdoor grill on deck 11, lost Terri, and watched Malta roll in. Everyone was on the deck (including Terri) to watch the Captain dock the boat and take pictures; the blue sky against Malta’s magnificent coast was marvelous.
I must admit that before we started the excursion I was nervous about the pick. It seemed a bit lame now after seeing Valletta from the boat and rereading the description. This one was dubbed as a “handicrafts village shopping” tour, so we expected the shopping to be good. But, we weren’t going to get any time in Valleta --- disappointing.
Our tour guide was a nice enough chap, but he didn’t really fit the bill as a tour guide. Something seemed missing. I don’t know if it was the long pauses between comments or the highlights on non-important sites like the new hospital, psychiatric unit, and recreation centers that turned me off. I later learned that he was only doing this part time to supplement his income after semi-retiring from a 36 year banking career. Still though, it didn’t matter. The excursion was good enough on its own.

The first stop was for handmade jewelry and a glass blowing factory. These shops were clustered together like an outlet mall, but were actually renovated out of old British Airforce (RAF) barracks. The glass blowing factory sounded cool, but the jewelry shop seemed boring. Afterall, when on vacation in Europe you are constantly bombarded by people selling cheap, normal, crappy jewelry. We were dead wrong.
This jewelry surpassed all expectations. For some reason when looking at this work, it just screamed stunning. One of the jewelers was working a few pieces when we got there and showed us the intricacy with which it was built and several sales people were very helpful (as expected) in finding the right pieces. Amanda (after some encouragement) found a couple of pieces and made the purchase. And Terri, without encouragement, did the same. Since we only had 25 minutes to see, learn, and buy, the purchase did feel a bit like a pressure buy, but looking back, we think we made the right call.


From there we went next door to the glass blowing factory. Amanda and I haven’t ever seen this done and we were impressed. All activities centered around a red hot kiln in the middle of the room and 5 or 6 men each performed specific tasks to create the glass works. While one was heating up the glass, another was blowing the glass, a third was setting the design, and the final workers were shaping and cutting the glass. It was like a symphony; each action was carefully, or routinely, organized to make it work. I snapped about 20 pictures to try to capture the event and none of them did it justice.
The shop was also nice and the designs were unique; although, to be honest, we probably couldn’t look past the impressive manufacturing to give an objective opinion. Nonetheless, we picked up a couple of trinkets and loaded up in the bus.

Our next stop was Mdina (pronounced M-Dina, not Medina) for a walking tour of the city. Our tour guide didn’t really teach us anything about the city, but it was okay because just gazing at the buildings was enough. This was an incredible city. A few things jumped out right away: (1) Surgical cleanliness – seriously, aside from the wrappers Jacob dropped on the ground, we didn’t see a single piece of trash in the city (yes – we did pick them up), (2) Architecture – It was mostly baroque, but the limestone used made the entire city gleam with an off-white radiance, and (3) City Plan – absolutely crazy planning – it was like this city was made to be invaded. The streets wound around in a maze an each one housed 1 or 2 more hidden alleyways.

We walked around for about 45 minutes, toured a church, viewed the coast from a perch inside the city wall, and then headed back to the bus. The guide couldn’t remember (or find) the number to the bus driver, so we sat around for an extra 20 minutes waiting. That is a lot of wasted time on a 3hr excursion, but we made the most out of it by playing with Jacob in the park.
Our final stop was Mosta where we were supposed to stop at the 3rd largest freestanding dome in the world. However, since several passengers couldn’t keep to the schedule and we lost the bus driver for 20 minutes, we had to skip the stop. That was really too bad because the building was beautiful and we had already been to the top two – San Pietro in The Vatican and St. Paul’s in London.
It didn’t matter though because the shopping and the walking tour made the excursion extremely worthwhile. Plus, Amanda and I agreed to return in 18 years with Jason and Terri to celebrate our 25 anniversary (J/T were married on 7-April one year minus one day before us). We relaxed the rest of the night away with another 3 course meal (my case 5 course), the nightly show, and Euchre with J/T. Another really, really great day.

Day 11: The final day at sea.
Royal Caribbean knows how to do it. They take you into their home for 11 days, treat you like kings, and then leave you fat and happy to go home. Perfection. The schedule is very organized as well. We started slowly with the days at sea, then hit the excursions hard for four days, and finished again with a day at sea.

Today we rolled through our normal routine of eating, gaming, eating, gaming, sleeping, eating, gaming while eating, show, gaming, and sleep. Our cruise director said it right, “Don’t worry about closing your suitcases tonight; just sit on them. The extra 11 pounds will come in handy for packing”. It is true. We probably gained 50lbs as a team during this vacation.
Today started with a nice swim in the Solarium before lunch. I won one ping-pong tournament and took silver in the other. I also placed 4th in my last Texas Hold-em tournament (not in the money) and attended an “unleash the author inside of you” lecture. Amanda and Jason competed in a Sudoku competition and got smoked, Terri hit the gym (she is a machine) and played video poker. Both Jason and I did a bit more rock climbing; Jason broke a nail (poor baby). And, we all played Euchre before and after the show; Jason and I destroyed Amanda and Terri --- seriously, Amanda was about to cry and Terri was filling the room with more profanity than I have ever heard – it was great. That might have been a slight exaggeration.
Somewhere during the day Amanda found time to pack the bags and we set them out just before bedtime for the crew to take care of. Cruises are so nice.

Day 12: Coming home.
Disembarking is complex. Imagine trying to take 2500 people and two week’s worth of luggage off of a boat through one door by 9am. Then imagine bringing the boat back to cruise quality (room cleaning, window cleaning, food and water inventory replenishment, etc.) in time for the next 2500 people with two week’s worth of luggage to load at 3pm. It is amazing and they do it really, really well. Not once did we feel rushed or pushed or nervous about time. They made us feel completely at ease the entire time.
It was still a long day. We woke at 5:30am and were at breakfast by 6:15 (couldn’t miss our last meal). Then we disembarked at 7:15am, had our luggage by 7:30am, and were at J/T’s hotel by 7:55am. How fast is that? We spent the rest of the morning walking around, relaxing, and talking. We grabbed lunch at McDonalds around 11am and then spent the final 1hr playing Euchre at McDonalds.

We said our goodbyes around 12:45 and headed to the airport. These were tough goodbyes to say. Over the three weeks we (me, Amanda, and Jacob) all bonded with Jason and Terri. We feel like we gained a great set of friends in a short two week span. Before we left Jacob preferred to hold Jason and Terri’s hands when “out and about”. And, since we parted ways, Jacob has asked “where Jasn and TerTer go” about 50 times. This is the first vacation when I really wasn’t ready for it to end. In fact, when we were walking the gangway all of us said we would have enjoyed another week on the boat. We will never forget this vacation.

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Part 47: Viking's Paradise

While Amanda and Jacob are in the US and I am stuck in Holland all by myself, I try to find "semi-productive" things to do so I don't go stir crazy. Over the past two years, I haven't been great at finding things to do, but this time I hit the jackpot.

I found the flight on RyanAir... Europe's cheapest airliner; if you follow their rules. I thought I could, so I bought the 75 euro ticket and planned my weekend to Stockholm, Sweden.
My Dad's side of the family is strongly Swedish as my great-great grandparents followed their Viking roots and immigrated to Minnesota. In fact, the Swedish ancestry is so strong that my Dad was nicknamed "Swede" when he started working in the coal mines. So, going to Sweden was something more than another European destination. It was kind of a homecoming.

I took a half day on Friday so I could make it to Eindhoven in time for the 3:30 flight; no problems there. I even packed my own bags well enough that I didn't have any checked luggage; Amanda would have been proud. The general plan for the weekend was to arrive Friday afternoon early enough for dinner, spend all day Saturday seeing as much as humanly possible, and then heading back on Sunday. For the most part, it worked to plan.

One of the problems with flying RyanAir are all the incidental charges. For example, when I arrived in "Stockholm", I was actually in an airport approximately 90 minutes from Stockholm - nice. It required a 30 euro bus ticket to get into town. Charge #1 (keep track there will be plenty by the time I finish).
I arrived at the bus station around 7pm and had no problem finding my hotel. It was in a great area and a good quality choice. It was immediately obvious that Swedish living is different from the rest of Europe and that the "IKEA" style was not just one person's idea. Mr. IKEA may have made billions off of the style by introducing it to the world, but he certainly didn't invent it. This modern style was started in the 70's when people started reducing the "extra" and getting back to basic living comforts. My hotel's shower was a perfect example of the style in action; a replica from the Jetson's set.
After settling in, I made my way to the shopping district to find a place to eat. Rick Steve's (as always) helped and led me to the Kungshallen food court. It was a fun place - kind of a "higher-end" version of an American food court. I settled for a cool Sushi stop and chowed on the Godzilla platter: a mix of tempura, sushi, and California rolls. My seat was perfect as I could look over the balcony and "people-watch" while eating...

The day had started really early, around 5am, so after dinner, I headed back to the hotel to hit the sack. It was a good end to the day.
The next morning, I awoke at 6am and got ready for the day. Oddly enough, nothing in Stockholm opens prior to 10am (earliest) and 11am (most) and in the winter everything closes early (5pm). So, getting the most out of this trip was going to take some planning. I decided to eat breakfast as soon as it opened (7:45am -- late huh?) and then get out on the town around 8am.

I left early so I could (1) get the lay of the land and (2) complete the recommended Rick Steve's walk prior to everything opening up. So, I wandered over to the Gamla Stan area and started the day. The cool, crisp walk was good for opening the lungs and waking me up. By the time I got there, I was really, really cold and starting to seriously reconsider Stockholm as a winter weekend destination.

Stockholm's layout defies all normal expectations as it is built on an archipelago; this city literally sits on 4-5 separate islands. Each area is connected by bridges, and water taxis are a typical way of life. Stockholm can also be defined as "modern done well". Years ago Stockholm fully embraced the green movement and updated the entire infrastructure to compensate. Doing so meant the city couldn't maintain the original, old architecture -- they had to update.

A lot of other cities have attempted to do the same but failed miserably in the process; take London's Gerkin as an example. Stockholm, on the other hand, excelled. This city found the perfect blend of modern updating without losing the old world charm - a truly remarkable and seamless transition.
The morning walk was fairly simple, but still gave me a sense for the old city. It started at the Royal palace by the King Gustav III's statue (the guy that transformed Stockholm into a European power) and then moved by the obelisk. The obelisk was erected after a successful military campaign against Russia.
Then I walked around a church to see the city's smallest statue; old women knit hats for the statue and others rub his head for good luck. I then walked down through a narrow alley and right through antique central to the Nobel Museum. The Nobel building is where the prizes are distributed every year and on a square that is lined with Sweden's best architecture. The square, ironically enough, was the site where 80 Swedes were murdered during a Danish uprising; not quite the peace that the Nobel process advocates today.

The walk winded around through the Prastgatan Lane where I saw my first Rune Stone. It was placed as a cornerstone to a nondescript building. The Gamla Stan is ripe with shopping, and cool shopping too. Not just the tacky souvenir shops, but real authentic stuff like sandal shops, viking shops, unique clothing shops... Amanda would have loved this street.
After the walk, I planned to go to the Nobel Museum, unfortunately it didn't open until 11am (a miss-read on my part). So, instead of waiting, I headed over to the Vasa museum site which opened at 10am. It was a long walk, but another good look at the city. On the way there, I made a smorgasbord reservation at the Grand Hotel. It was Valentine's Day, but I still managed to talk my way into an early slot. I did have to promise to eat quickly and be finished within 1.5 hours... No problem.
I made it to the Vasa in record time. Not sure what drove me most, the time constraints or the desire to find the next warm building.

The Vasa turned out to be the best sight in Stockholm (for me). This museum holds the warship Vasa which sank 15 minutes into its maiden voyage and stayed at the bottom of the sea for 300 years. It was built too quickly and with all the specifications the King demanded. Unfortunately, the 2nd cannon deck proved too top heavy and the ship tipped over when the first light breeze hit her sails.

The ship is magnificently preserved. It is in the exact same condition it was in the mid-1600's, perfectly salvaged through a serious of unique and clever engineering. While we weren't able to climb in the ship, the museum has a series of ramps that circle the ship at various levels so you can get a good view of virtually every piece.
There are a lot of side exhibits that describe the details of the sinking and the recovery. One computer program actually let you rebuild the ship to see if you could keep it from sinking. My first try sank (very quickly), but my second sailed. But, the King still fired me because the warship was too slow.
I didn't expect much out of this museum, but it was great. I fully recommend this spot for everyone. It is great for kids and adults alike.

My next stop was right next door at the Nordic museum. Rick Steve's gave this sight three stars so my hopes were high. Unfortunately, Rick was dead wrong about this place. It was an absolute sleeper. It was totally unspectacular in every way, except for the audio guide devices (those were way cool) and the Sapmi exhibit.

The Sapmi exhibit taught me about the indigenous people of Lapland, the Sami. It spoke mainly about their plight to maintain their way of life. It was interesting to learn about their legal battles with Sweden over education, land use, and hunting. A classic example of one society trying to impose their way of life on another. The Sami won.
Outside of that one exhibit, the rest was terrible. I don't know what Rick was smoking when he hit this exhibit. He missed it by a long shot.

After the Nordic Museum, I headed over to Skansen. Skansen is an outdoor folk village; reported to be the best in Europe. It is. While it was very cold and very empty while I was there, it was very clear how cool this place would have been in the summer time.
The buildings are really well done and the site is superb. It is a mix of folk village / zoo. There is a great exhibit with all native Scandinavian animals: reindeer, bears, wolves, etc. Jacob would have had a great time --- maybe we will have to come back in the summer.

As a quick stop before leaving, I went to the Aquarium. It is privately owned, so it costs extra, but with my "Stockholm card" I got in for "free". It was a pretty good exhibit complete with anacondas, spider monkeys, and sharks. It was small, but pretty well done.

Instead of walking back around the lake to Gamla Stan, I took the boat taxi and shaved 45 minutes off the commute. It was cool to ride a boat around Stockholm's islands, but wasn't an earth-shattering experience. After making landfall, I headed straight over to the Royal Armory and Nobel museum.

The Royal armory was a three star event by Rick Steve's and basically lived up to expectations. They had a ton of really unique, cool, and well-preserved medieval stuff. I didn't spend much time there, but enjoyed looking at the collection.

Afterwards, I headed over to the Nobel Museum. This museum is weird... Seriously, I didn't get it. There were some cool exhibits, but it was so randomly organized, I couldn't get a handle on what I was supposed to be learning. It seemed to spend a lot of time on Darwin's theories and the importance of freedom of speech. There were a couple of really cool spots. Like the theatre that kept showing inspirational speech's (MLK, etc) and the corner that talked about Alfred Nobel (that one was a blast - get it?), but in general, it was too poorly organized to get much out of it. The best part of that museum was the book store. I found three great books there... one about Einstein, one book of Nobel answers, and Words of Peace.

I left the Nobel Museum around 4:30pm and hoofed it over to one last souvenir shop for a couple of last minute gifts for Amanda and Jacob and then headed back to the hotel to drop my bags off before dinner. It was then that I realized just how wore out I was --- whew --- 6am to 4pm with no breaks.

I left the hotel around 5:40pm and walked over to the Grand Hotel for dinner. It was recommended by Rick Steve's and it was superb. Really, really, really superb. Smorgasbords are a Swedish specialty and I took full advantage of it. This was another experience that I should probably keep to myself, but oh well, here it goes.

The meal started with lobster bisque (have you ever had that? You haven't lived until you have). Then I moved to the herring... Oh the herring. In Holland they will pull the Herring out of the ocean, gut it, and then put it down the hatch. Now, I haven't done that yet (heavy stress on yet), but I did inch closer by eating about 2 plates of raw herring served every way possible. I felt like Bubba talking about shrimp when I walked through the list of choices: pickled herring, spicy herring, marinated herring, herring with shrimp, herring with lime, herring with cucumber cream sauce, etc. It went on and on and on... It was good...

Okay, two plates and one bowl so far... And still going strong.

Then I moved over to the smoked salmon. Not just smoked salmon, but salmon served 5 different ways (kind of like the herring). Ummm, plate number three.
After the salmon, I mosied over to the hot food and loaded up on shrimp omelets, potato cakes, and Swedish meatballs. By that point in the meal, I was starting to get full --- not completely full yet, but getting there. Don't worry, I left just enough room for dessert. Lemon tart, raspberry tort, tiramisu, and cake.

I washed the meal down with about 1 liter of ice cold water and waddled out only able to inhale half a breath of air --- I guess my stomach was squeezing in a bit.

Okay -- I know it is ridiculous, but dude --- it was good. I only had a small breakfast, no lunch, no snacks, so splurging on a meal like this didn't seem too bad. However, I really knew I had gone overboard when I couldn't sleep on my belly that night. :)
I did make it home and settled in for the night thinking about how much I had seen and how tired my feet were.

The next morning I slept in and took it easy getting ready. I really only had a couple items on the agenda: breakfast (didn't need much from the night before), bus ride to the airport, flight to Eindhoven, and drive home.

Unfortunately, RyanAir gave me a bit more excitement for the evening. As I mentioned earlier, my 75 euro ticket got a bit more expensive. At check-in, Ryan asked me if they could weigh my "carry-on" bag. I said it wasn't necessary because it was a carry-on and they informed me that if it was too heavy and it fell, it could kill someone. So, I weighed it. It was too heavy by 10 lbs (i.e. at 30 lbs). They said I had to check it --- which, I replied "fine, every passenger gets one checked bag right?" Umm, no -- actually checking bags costs extra. How much? Sir, it will be 35 euros.

What can a guy say? I mean the 75 euro ticket + 10 euro "Non-EU" fee + 35 euro (plus 3-hr) transit fee + 35 euro baggage fee. I guess you get what you pay for.

In the end, you have to take these "bumps" just as "extra taxes". It was a good trip, a little lonely, but still great fun to see a new city.

Friday, February 6, 2009

Part 46: Two Year Anniversary

Today marks our 2nd year in Holland. We can't believe it.

It just seems like yesterday that we were putting Jacob in the bassinet on the first KLM flight, drinking chocolatemelk met slagroom at Leidschenhage, eating dinner on a cardboard box while sitting on two IKEA chairs, and sleeping on a blow up mattress... Those were the days.

This time in Holland has contributed to both the best and the worst times of our lives. We have watched our son grow up, our mindsets open, and travelled the world. We endured countless lonely nights away from each other and missed too many events with friends and family. We have grown stronger together as a family and we now know better the value of those closest to us.

We still don't know exactly when we will be home, but we want you to know that we miss all of you terribly. Thanks for supporting our adventure through calls, skypes, visits, and care packages. We can't wait to be back home with everyone.

Then...


And now...

Thursday, January 1, 2009

Part 45: New Year's Eve Celebration - Dutch Style

As you know, we decided to stay in Holland for the 2008 Holiday season. While it was difficult to be away from friends and family, it was also cool to participate in local traditions.

And let me tell you... They have quite some traditions on New Year's Eve. I noticed something was up when walking home from work I noticed 3 separate massive piles of wood. There was a police officer nearby and he said that at midnight all of the local municipalities light up the piles to welcome in the new year. Cool.

I got home around 5pm and we immediately headed over to the Kupper's house for the evening. They invited us over for dinner and games to welcome in the year. We had a good time, ate a lot of food, played Scene-it, and chatted the evening down. A traditional meal for New Year's Eve is "Gourmet", without a silent "t". Since the Kupper's had just returned from the US the day before, we didn't get to eat it on the day, but they invited us over for dinner again 2 weeks later for the experience (i.e. picture is not from New Year's Eve).


Everything on New Year's really centers around fireworks. It is the central event of the day. This year everyone was a little worried that the fireworks show would be overshadowed by a heavy evening fog. Lucky for us the fog lifted prior to the show(s).

The primary difference between Holland and the US with fireworks is everyone buys their own. Now, I know people buy their own in the US too. But, it's different. In Holland, "everyone" buys their own. Literally, every other house purchased a set of works. They weren't the small sparkler sets either. They were the big bomb busters that light up the sky.

Before we got over there Rachel mentioned that it would be like a war zone. Yeah right was our combined response. Okay. She was right, we were wrong. It gets so big that the communities block off all trash cans and mail boxes to prevent kids from blowing them up.

It was incredible. The sky lit up like the 4th of July in DC, the air quickly filled with the pungent scent of sulfur, and people up and down the street scrambled as each improperly mounted "boom-fire" tipped over. It was really cool. I don't think Amanda or I have ever seen anything like that before.

After the fireworks, we made our way home and then stayed awake (with Jacob) until about 3am when most people stopped shooting off fireworks.


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Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Part 44: Christmas in Holland

For Christmas last year we decided to do a whirlwind tour of the US. It was one of those events that went something like: AMS to Houston, Houston to Dallas, Dallas to STL, STL to Peoria, Peoria to STL, STL to Houston, Houston to AMS... Something like 20,000 miles in 14 days. Too much.

Those trips (and we have done 4 of them so far) are nice because you get to see everyone, but very, very, tiring. Since Jacob is getting older and we don't know how much longer we are going to be here, we opted for something a bit more low-key --- home.

So, after getting back to town on 24-Dec from our mini-vacation, we then went straight to the grocery store for Christmas day / weekend feasts. Those are the best trips to the store. The ones where you have almost zero agenda on what to purchase and just mill around the store (through each aisle) until you find enough food to get you through. Normally, you end up coming home with 3 days of snacks and no real food. Fortunately, Amanda brings a practical personality to the trip.

We did, beforehand, pull together a list of things we used to eat as kids at Christmas. All of the favorites like monkeybread, pigs in a blanket, artificial crab meat, etc. Unfortunately, Holland doesn't carry everything needed, so we improvised.

We originally had an ambitious plan for Christmas Eve. It involved: (1) getting home, (2) buying groceries, (3) building a Gingerbread house, (4) baking cookies, (5) Voorburg candle service, (6) party at a friends house, and (7) Christmas Eve service at church. We did get most done, but not quite everything. As I write this 2 days after Christmas, the Gingerbread house still isn't built. Oh well, maybe next year.

By staying in Holland this year, we hoped to experience it like a native. One item that we didn't know about was the candle service in downtown Voorburg. We didn't see any advertising for it, but it is quite an event. Little did we know.

When we arrived, droves of people milled around looking at the candles in the windows of every home and store front. It was impressive. The town turned off all artificial lights so the only light showing was that coming from the candles in the windows. Some people put out village scenes, but most just lined their window sills with tea lights. It was a sight.

What surprised us most was the number of people in attendence. The streets were packed. In fact, at our friend's party afterwards, she mentioned that they actually bus people into town for the celebration.

It was one of those things that we never would have known about if we hadn't stayed here for Christmas. After the party and the candle service, we made our way to the church service where Pastor Blackman pulled together a great message.

That left the rest of the evening for Amanda and I to put Jacob to bed and get down the gifts. It was great fun discussing the Christmas strategies and melding our family traditions into our own. This was, afterall, really the first Christmas that Amanda and I have spent together without extended family. In the past, we always found ourselves in either Dallas or St. Louis to visit family.

This picture was acutally taken at the end of the day, but it just seemed like the right one to start the blog.

This was also the first Christmas when Jacob started to get into Santa Claus (or Ho Ho). While he didn't show giddy reactions to the the bated anticipation, you could tell he was really into the festivities.

The day was fairly equally spread between opening presents, playing with presents, and eating. When we woke up we started with the stockings and then moved to the bigger gifts. For Jacob, it was open a gift, play with it for 20 minutes and then open another. This started at 8am and ended at 8:30pm (for Jacob) --- but then again, he had about 3 times the number of gifts that we had.

The top gifts for Jacob this year were ane eisle / chalkboard, golf set, Matchbox cars / travel playset, multiple dress-up costumes (fireman and cowboy), cooking stuff (where the pizza was the biggest hit), and lots of clothes and books. It was a good year for him. He wanted to thank everyone for making the extra effort to ship (and pack) the gifts to Holland. From his perspective, it was well worth it.

Amanda did a great job with Christmas treats. Jacob and I woke up to the smell of gingerbread cookies, took our first break at 9;30 for cinnamon rolls, and our second break for breakfast tacos.

She says she enjoyed her gifts, too. I had worked all year to pull together the perfect gifts. It ended up holding the unintended theme of cooking and parties. She ended up with several Italian pots (one vase and one serving dish), a pasta maker (with ravioli attachment), cook books, clothes, a nativity set, and several DVD's.

My Christmas was very unique. Over the past couple of months I dropped many, not so subtle hints that I wanted a couple of gifts I could play with on Christmas day. Right? Who wants a pile of clothes and ties? You have to have something that you can immediately use. She didn't dissappoint. I ended up with a couple of Wii games (the Star Wars game is superb), several books, a couple of great board games (WWI - Diplomacy, and Railroad building in Japan), and a couple of gift cards for further online purchases.

The big surprise for me was Amanda's gift to me. She said she had this idea for several years, but never found the right year to give me the gift. I got a telescope. Which, in general, is super cool. But, in this case is even better.

To avoid massive shipping costs she bought it from an outfit in Germany. And, she says that they didn't have dimensions online. I think she probably overlooked the details; granted, she rarely overlooks details -- trust me on that one. Anyway, she did a lot of research and opted to get a "tier 2" scope; better than a beginner's scope, but not nearly the most advanced. She expected it to be about 2 feet long and 6 inches in diamter...

It was twice that size - literally. When I opened it, it looked like she purchased the Hubble Telescope from NASA. She was shocked and a little embarressed, but I was super excited. We debated sending it back for something a little more realistic, but decided to stick with what we got. Unfortunately, a second box hasn't yet arrived. So, we will have to wait a bit before we test it out. Won't it be fun to have a "star party"? I can't wait!

The rest of the pictures are just miscellaneous shots of Jacob playing with his gifts. He clearly had a great Christmas and continues to cycle between his gifts: like one play station to the next. Here he is with his new flashlight, wearing two new sweaters on top of his jammies and drawing on his new eisle.
This is Mommy showing off her new jacket while trying to coax Jacob to try on the new dress-up outfits. I think Mommy lost that battle and will have to fight the fires by herself.
Here is Jacob opening his new golf set. When playing with it, Mommy said "maybe you could be a caddy someday for one of the big golfers." What is going on with that? We had to have a quick talk about setting appropriate expectations. He won't be the caddy... he will be the golfer.

Jacob is a huge fan of Matchbox cars and Legos. Our first day we built a zoo for all his new animals and serviced several of his Matchbox cars.
We found a little time right before lunch to decorate cookies that Mommy had made. Jacob thought the cookies were good, but he clearly preferred the icing. We couldn't quite teach him to stop licking the icing off the knife. I know --- terrible lesson.

Isn't this a nice picture. Maybe we will submit it to Better Homes and Gardens. We tried to get a family picture without the flash, but Jacob couldn't sit still enough for the photo. We ended up with about 10 pictures where Amanda and I are focused and Jacob was a blurry ball of energy.


We had a very merry Christmas and wish everyone a Happy New Year!

Friday, December 19, 2008

Part 43: A very cold, old "Cold World"

The best times to travel, for us, are around other prescheduled days off from work. This allows us to take longer trips without tapping into the vacation pool as much. Our original idea was to take a trip to the North Pole... I know crazy, but we found some cool vacation ideas in Rovaniemi, Finland where you could spread your time between visiting Santa's "real" home, playing with his elves, Reindeer and Husky rides, and other snow games. It would have been a great vacation, but it got outrageously expensive. This would have been the first trip where our 2-year-old would have to pay - ouch! So, the 1500 USD / person tickets were way too much.

So after booking the hotel, we ditched the idea and got our refund. We then looked to the "list of places we want to visit before moving home" and merged it with what was financially appropriate. We decided on Berlin and Prague.

These two cities had been highly recommended by numerous people, "Berlin is a great city" and "Prague's archetecture is unbelievable". Plus, when looking at the costs, travelling in and out of these cities was easy and very, very cheap.

We ended up booking a one-way flight to Berlin, a train ride from Berlin to Prague, and then another one-way from Prague back to Amsterdam. The one-way travel options in Europe are great; thanks to all of the discount airlines like Transavia, Ryan, Sky, etc. They offer point-to-point service that is priced appropriately. Unlike the majors that charge you more for a one-way than they do for a round trip. The total cost per person was 185 Euros (100 + 50 + 35). Yeah - the Prague flight was actually 7 euros + 28 euros in tax...

The agenda was leave on Friday at 6:30am (to Berlin), stay for 2 days, then train to Prague (5hrs) on Sunday, stay for 2 days, and then fly home on Christmas Eve morning. It was ambitious (as usual), but everyone I talked to indicated 2 days per city was sufficient.

We arrived in Berlin, basically on schedule, found our hotel via a cab driver with budding tour guide ambitions, and then started out on the town. Amanda and I like to see a town by walking it. We typically take the first day, or few hours, and map out our personal walking tour. These days, with Rick Steves, those tours are much more insightful and information-packed.

When you walk a city you see stuff that wouldn't get highlighted in the tour guides - i.e. odd art exhibits (like the ball shown above --- we have no idea what it is supposed to mean).

Since we woke Jacob up very early and cooped him up in an airplane / airport for most of the morning, we decided to find something for him where he could expell some energy - Berlin's Legoland.

The biggest, most famous Legoland is in Copenhagen (it's on our list). It is built up like a themepark, complete with rides like Six Flags. This one is much smaller. But, still a lot of fun. There are tons of "sand-pits" filled with lego parts, a big ball park w/ slides (Jacob's favorite), a mini-Berlin (pretty cool since we hadn't seen the city yet), and a mock-up lego factory.

We spent a couple of hours there, and the entire time I kept thinking "we just arrived to Berlin and we are wasting precious time playing with legos indoors?" But, as expected by Amanda, doing so eventually led Jacob to a long nap and contentment in the stroller. Plus, we scored some souvenir blocks that were a big hit the rest of the trip.


Legoland, by the way is stationed in Potsdammer Platz, a newly rennovated area that has a lot of high-end shopping. Previously, however, Potsdammer was one of the busiest squares in Europe. After the war, it was split in two by the Berlin Wall.

After we left Legoland, we headed north along Tiergarden Park (Berlin's Central Park) to check out the Holocaust monument, the Brandenburg Gate, and the Reichstag building.

This trip, while we didn't know it before, was to be largely jewish-focused. In Germany, and the Czech Republic, a lot of Jewish memorials and museums have been erected to remember the atrocities of the Holocaust. The first was call the "Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe".

As you know, over 50million people died during WWII and 6 million were Jews murdered during the Holocaust. Germany didn't build a momument too quickly, but finally in 2005, finished this memorial.

This one is pretty cool. From the outside it looks like a New Orleans cemetary with all graves above ground. The graves look about the same size (length and width), but seem to vary a little in height. It looks like ~3000 graves evenly spread out over a flat field. But, when you walk into the "symbolic" cemetary, you realize that the ground is not level. In fact the monument is built on a slope/valley. And, each of the stones are much different in height, so to give the appearence of a flat field.

It was unique and, like all monuments, a good opportunity to mentally wander through that chapter in history.

After the Jewish Memorial, we kept walking north until we found the Brandenburg Gate (bottom left picture in collage). This is the last remaining old fortification from the 18th century Berlin. At one point in the early 1800's Napolean stole the horse and Chariot from the top and took it to the Louvre; the German's later took it back when Napolean lost to the Prussians in 1813. It was also made famous in 1933 when a "torch parade" walked through the gate to honor Hilter's election victory. After WWII it became yet another site along the Berlin wall. You can see the two "actors" carrying American and Soviet flags --- this is a very common show for Berlin. Anything to make a buck.

Just one block north of the gate is the German Parliament building called the Reichstag. This building has a tattered history. It was symbol of democracy built during Kaiser Wilhem's reign (the German guy who orchestrated WWI), burned by "someone" in 1933 (most now believe it was Hitler who used it to grab more power from the Communists), the last stand for the last 1500 nazis at the end of WWII, and abandoned for ~40 years during the cold war. The current government uses this building like the US uses the capital building (top row of pictures).

There are so many monuments in Europe for WWII. The bottom-middle picture is a monument for the murdered politicians that opposed Hitler.

That basically ended the first day. It was getting late and we were all very tired. So, we walked home along the Unter den Linden, found a quick place to eat, and settled in for the night.
The next morning we decided to make it a "museum-day". There were several to choose from, but we opted for the Jewish Museum and the German History Museum. The Jewish Museum was south of us and the German museum was north; so, we had a heavy day of walking in front of us.
While visiting the "best" Jewish museum in Europe (according to Rick), we had a chance to visit a Chanuka market. It was really small, didn't offer anything different from a Christmas Market, but was still cool to say we've been to one.

The Jewish museum was really good. It chronicled the long history of the Jewish people starting somewhere in "pre-Jesus" time period. It was interesting to learn about the many plots throughout history to exterminate this ethnic group. The Jewish people have a lot of enemies.

The most moving part, for me, was the memory void. It is a room filled with thousands of faces cut out of iron. Aside from the clanking sounds that echoes when people walk in the room, it is very quiet. The faces are left to symbolize the senseless death of the Jewish people throughout history. It is called the memory void because there are specific times in history where the Jewish population has been so far reduced that the memories (i.e. history) have been lost. This was also evident in the quality of exhibits in the museum. While it was still really good; for this to be the best Jewish museum in Europe is kind of sad. I just don't think there is enough "stuff" leftover. Most of it has been burned, destroyed, and lost forever. A very sad story.

While walking between the two museums, we had a chance to see most of the Berlin sights. I think Berlin can be best described as a place looking to forget its past, by building a new future. Berlin, literally, is a massive construction site. Since it was decided to move the capital from Bonn to Berlin in the 1999 (by just a few votes), massive construction projects have been underway. A few of my work colleagues indicated that 10 years ago you could still see WWII bullet holes in the buildings. Since 1999, Germany has invested heavily into the city to "cover-up" the past and create and environment worthy of the capital. Today, the city looks great. It is clean, new, and fun.

We finally made it to the German Museum around 4pm and had to rush through to see everything by the 6pm closing time. I must say, this is an exquisite museum. It is richly adorned with great artifacts from all time periods. To me, it is an example of how relavent Germany has been in developing the history of the world (both for good and bad). They have collected a ton of unique and impressive exhibits.

Unfortunately, the museum didn't allow flash photography, so only a handful of pictures survived the blurry abyss of a shaky photographer's hand.
The pictures below show (1) Charlemagne - the guy that brought Chistianity to Germany and defined Aachen as the capital of the Holy Roman Empire, (2) the Fat Pigeon - still the symbol of Germany's Government - like our eagle, and (3) Napolean's cap and sword - taken from him after a defeat --- a very different display than in the Invalids (in Paris).

Today, we tend to think about castles as just the final result. These four pictures show the evolution of a castle over time (left to right, top to bottom). It starts as a small homestead and gradually grows into a massive fortification.

I especially liked these exhibits. The left side pictures show games sold to children during WWI and WWII (i.e. Uboat and Trench warfare kits). The center and right pictures show "old-school" video games. The middle picture is probably the first pinball machine and the right pictures is a cannon game (looked like the old baseball game where the marbled would "get-hit" into a single, double, triple, etc slot).

One of the things that I love about museums are the great pictures on display. They are always the best that captured the moment. The left-most picture below shows a time-action shot of the torch parade and the right shows the burning of the Reichstag building.
The left picture here shows a propaganda poster showing how Britain and the USSR are collaborating to win the war. The second picture shows the booster engine from a V2 rocket.

Some of the best pieces are old newspapers. I have never been good at saving the "right" newspapers (nor, do I have a wife that would allow that kind of clutter). So, I guess I will have to be happy with those that do. This one shows the jubilation at the end of the war.
We were literally the last ones to leave the museum. Just before exiting, I turned and counted the number of guards waiting for our departure; there were 14. And, each of them despised our deplorable act of being last. Oh well --- their problem, not mine.

Berlin is very far north (like 500 miles north of Maine), so the days of winter are very short. Especially so, on Winter Solstice, which was one day away. Needless to say the sun was down by the time we exited. But, lucky for us, the German Christmas Market's of Berline are in full swing the week prior, so we had plenty to do.

These markets were nice. Not so different from others we had seen, but definitly bigger. These markets had ice rinks, big candle things (whirly giggers - Amanda's term), and lots of food. So, we spent some time in market, Jacob and I took a "Choo-Choo-Ride", and we found a nice steak place for dinner.

Again, we were exhausted... So, after dinner, we headed home to get some sleep. Getting to the hotel couldn't have come any earlier.

The next morning we decided to take it easy and check out a few sites close to the hotel. Our hotel name was Hotel Mercure at Checkpoint Charlie. So, after our breakfast we headed out to the most iconic symbol of the Cold War; Checkpoint Charlie and the Berlin Wall.

Just two blocks from our hotel, there was an outdoor exhibit that chronicled the events following WW II. It basically boiled down to a power struggle between the majors (USSR and USA) where the USSR adopted Communism and the USA maintained a well-grounded belief in Democracy and Capitalism.

The world agreed to not make the same mistakes they had following WWI; that is, to so punitively punish the agressor (i.e. Germany) that they have no hope. So, following WWII, they decided instead to engage and rebuild the country. Some say that the best way to avoid a war or collapse is to ensure a strong economy and middle class. Doing so will create a standard of living such that the people will not yearn for something better.

For Germany, this platform meant it would be split in half; East Germany and West Germany. West would follow US ideals and East would follow Communism. Berlin was the center stage for this movement and it too was split in half. Berlin, however was divided into four segments: USSR, USA, UK, and France. The USA, UK, and French sectors allied together to form West Berlin.

At the beginning the differences were not so apparent and people were allowed to freely move between the different sectors. But, as the Cold War heightened and the differences grew, the segregation increased. Over time, the line between the two evolved into a barbed wire (on the ground), to a flemsy fence, and then to a wall. The wall was actually built over 3-4 phases too. The wall that everyone remembers is just the final installment of the program.

The wall became a physical example of the tensions rising between the nations. As the tensions increased, the wall got bigger.

The map below shows Germany. If you look hard enough you can see the dark line that surrounds the city. One interesting aspect is that West Berlin was, at one point, actaully and island in the middle of East Germany. So, when tensions got high enough and people were not allowed to cross between the two countries, people in West Berlin were completely dependent on air drops from the US, UK, and France. There are a lot of heroic stories about those air drops.

The pictures below show a few of the cool pictures on display. The top-left photo shows then-president Truman shaking hands with Churchill and Stalin just after WWII, the top-right photo shows a picture of Kennedy right after his legendary speach in Berlin, and the bottom photo shows the famous quote coming from that speach.

When the cold war hit the peak during the Cuban Missle Crisis (13-days), both the US and USSR moved munitions to Checkpoint Charlie. This is where the US and USSR faced off for days (maybe longer) without firing a shot. It was a very tense time and this location was the center of focus.
Today there is a pole with a double-sided sign with pictures of a US and USSR soldier. This is to forever remind people of the standoff between the nations. The other two pictures below are of only remaining section of the Berlin wall. Where once it stood as a permanent divider between two warring ideologies, now it stands as a symbol of democracy's victory over communism.

In 1989 the wall fell. Hoards of people rushed to the streets and started picking away at the Berlin wall. It was a moment in history that most of us remember. But, until this weekend, I had no idea of the true meaning behind the event. Today, there is only one section of wall remaining, but the entire wall is still marked by a cobblestone line in the ground.

Walking that line and reading the history left a great impression on all of us.

After the wall, we had to rush back to the hotel and grab a cab to the train station to catch our connection to Prague. We felt really good about Berlin. We only had 2 days, but it was enough to catch the highlights and learn about the city / country / cold war. Berlin is an excellent place to visit. And, Christmas time is a good time.

The train ride to Prague left at 12:30pm and arrived at 5:30pm. So, it was a long ride. Fortunately, we were all pretty tired so we slept for the first 2.5 hrs of the ride (at least Jacob and I did), I think Amanda stayed awake for most of it.

After we woke up we started studying the Rick Steves guide to Prague to develop a game plan for our time. From our studies, one thing became abundantly clear to us. Prague was not as safe as the rest of Europe. The guide book made it very clear that the Czech Republic is a young entrepreneurial nation that is still learning how to most effectively govern itself.

There were several examples in the book about taxi cabs, counting your change, and pickpocketers that scared Amanda and I a little bit. Oh well, another challenge, right? Plus, we figured he was exagerating a little bit.

When we first arrived we decided to take a cab to the hotel. We found the cab stand in a very, very dark corner of the station. It seemed like a shadowy murder scene from CSI and had both of us scared. Nevertheless, we found a cabby that spoke decent English and took our chances. We followed his route fairly closely with one of our maps and felt good about the trip; no problem.

In the book Rick says no cab ride should cost more than 200 Koruna. When we arrived at our destination, the driver informed us the bill was 600 Koruna. Rick said we should just give him 200 Koruna and then walk away to the hotel. We tried, but the cab driver grabbed one of the bags and held it hostage. He wasn't going for less than 600. Finally, after about 10 minutes of arguing, we ponied up the 600 and left. The cab driver saluted us and told us to F-off.

It wasn't the greatest start to the trip. Lucky for us our hotel was going to turn things around quickly. We booked everything through http://www.venere.com/ (a great website for European hotels). But, during the booking I must have forgotten to say that we had a baby with us; so, when she saw Jacob she offered to put us in a room that was a little bigger for no extra charge. Easy decision for us.

When we got to the room (or, should I say rooms), we were astounded by the size. We ended up with the Junior Apartment Suite. It was four rooms: a living room, a foyer, a bathroom and a bedroom. The bathroom had a shower that could have held 10 people (with a great shower head --- an upgrade that is often missing in hotels) and was bigger than one of the rooms we rented in Paris. The foyer was the size of an average EU hotel room with a full-lenght mirror coat rack and cocktail table. The living room was decked out with a flat screen TV, big coffee table, couch and love seat, and desk. The bedroom (get this) had a kingsize bed --- we didn't think Europeans knew about beds that big --- and, another flat screen TV. Literally, this hotel room was 8 times the size of a normal EU hotel room. Awesome!

The location was great, too. We were only 200 meters (fully integrated, huh?) from the main square and a 10 minute walk from everything of interest. Aside from the hotel that Phil booked for us in Florence, this was by far the best place we have stayed in Europe.

Since we got in so late and were pretty hungry, we decided to take a stroll to the Christmas market. Much to our surprise, this market was very different from the German markets. They still had the same "crafty" stuff that isn't terribly unique, but they also had a completely different menu.

Most Christmas markets are defined by the loacation and the food. In Germany, most Christmas markets have sausages, crepes, and maybe a potato cake stand (if your lucky). Prague had all of that and much, much more. When we first walked up to the market we could smell the open pit fire and could see four hams rottisserie roasting over the fire. It was superb. When we turned the corner we found a potato cake stand. And then we found something completely new - TRDLO. I have know idea how to pronounce the word, but it was tasty. It was basically bread dough rolled into long strips and wrapped around a rolling pin. Then they rolled the dough through cinnamon and sugar and placed it over the open fire and spun it until it was golden brown. Needless to say, we weren't hungry for long.
Prague is very proud of its intellectual and artistic heritage. Since they have never had the resources to be a world power, they have always differentiated themselves through the arts. Therefore, every night at the market they brought in musical groups to perform. The first night we were there a lady played an "organ-like-instrument" which rang bells. It was superb.

The decorations at this market were differential. They set up an enormous tree and lit it with thousands of lights; it was the first thing we saw when we walked to the market and it really set everyone into the Christmas spirit.

After we had sampled all the food and taken in a few concerts, we decided to head back to our luxury apartment to hig the sack early.
The next morning we headed out early to get the lay of the land and see the city's main attraction: the Castle Quarter. While walking across town to the venue, we got to see the main square in daylight. It is truly a sight to see.
Prague is notably different than the other European cities because it wasn't impacted at all by WWI or WWII, so all of the buildings and sights remain in tact just as they were hundreds of years ago. In fact, the archetecture is the most striking feature of city. It is as if every building has its own character and personality.
There are a couple additional notable sight in the main square. The first is the Jan Hus monument (top left). He led a "pre-protestant-reformation" about 100 years before Martin Luther. He was, and still is, revered by many across the world as the first to begin breaking the corrupted Catholic grip on the continent. There is still a group call Hussites that follow his teachings very closely.
There is also a very unique clock mounted in the square. If you can figure out how to tell time by the clock, then you're better than I. Every hour people gather below the clock to see it ring.
The Chrismas market looks completely different in the daylight. You can see the TRDLO in a few of the pictures. We never figured out what the significance of the devil creature (bottom-right) was, but lots of the kids were wearing horns. Go figure.

We had to walk across town and up a big hill to the Castle Quarter. The distance wasn't too far, but the hill was a killer. To make matters worse, Jacob has gotten into a habit of wanting to be carried rather than sitting in the stroller or walking. So, on top of carrying ourselves up the mountain, we also carried Jacob. It was a drain.
Like all difficulties though, the reward was completely fulfilling. The view from the top was great and showed us a top level view of the city. We found the rooflines most striking.

After finding the summit, we walked through the gates (played a couple of games on the guards --- they don't smile for anything) and made our way to the cathedral.

The cathedral was nice, but it was like a miniature Cologne cathedral. The style (inside and outside) looked just like Cologne, but Cologne is about 5 times bigger. For those that haven't seen Cologne, this church would have been very impressive. For us, it was nice, but didn't quite measure up.

The inside of the church was good, and like most impressive cathedrals, was completely adorned with breathtaking stainglassed windows. The window in the top-left grid was especially impressive. Rick Steve provided a panel-by-panel review of the story. It is amazing how big a message can be told in one picture.
The Hapsburgs are buried in the cathedral. The Hapsburgs ammassed massive fortunes and yielded unparalleled power during the 1500 - 1600's.

After the cathedral we headed back toward town and to check out the statue for Good King Wenceslas. The good king Vaclav is credited with Christianizing the region in the 10th century. He also brought additional power to the region by gaining a vote in the Holy Roman Empire --- I wonder if he knew Charlemagne personally.
The two guys memorialized in the second picture are martyrs that set themselves afire as a demonstration against communism. They were philosophy students that loved freedom so much that living without it, inside of that communist regime, was simply unbearable.
That pretty much summed up our day. It doesn't seem like much now, but Prague is just one of those cities that you have to wander aimlessly about. We had a couple of great meals and a couple of good long walks. It was a good relaxing day.

The next morning we headed to the second venue: the Jewish Quarter. This area has a high concentration of Jewish residents and, as expected, has faced immeasureable attacks over the years.
The area is defined by 5 or 6 different synagogues that each house a museum. The museums were basic, but good. They highlighted some of the key tenets to the faith, typical traditions, and what it was like to live in a Jewish home. It was interesting and we each learned a lot, but just like in Berlin, it was sad to see how little they have to show for the thousands of years of service.

The most impressive sight was a Jewish cemetary. Over the years the Jews were only allowed to be buried in one spot. So, after quickly running out of room, they started burying people on top of each other. Over time this created a hill some 15 feet above grade. The Jewish faith doesn't alow for people to be reburied, so this is how they chose to leave it. The pictures do a pretty good job of showing how the tombstones have shifted over hundreds of years of settling. It was an impressive cemetary.

I don't know the significance, but as part of the faith they also place messages on little pieces of paper and stick them into small crevices in the stone. They also stack pebbles on the tombs - not sure why.
On the last day we made our way back to the Charles bridge for some pcitures without rain. The Charles bridge is probably the attraction most people want to see. It was built by Charles IV (Karlo Quatro) in the 14th century. It was the only bridge in the area until the 18th century and today serves as "one of the most enjoyable 500 meter strolls in Europe". It is adorned on both sides by many statues, each of which has a story.
It is currently under reconstruction which is expected to last for another 6 years. The bridge is beautiful and thoroughly enjoyable. Aside from a near pickpocketing miss and rather cloudy weather, it was perfect.



Just below the bridge lies the "Little Quarter". It is famous for the small cobblestone roads, unique shops, and atmosphere. Inside the quarter there is another wall, similar in principle to the Berlin wall and, in my opinion, equally unique.
It was originally called the Lenin Wall and is now called the Lennon Wall. In 1980, the year that John Lennon was killed, grafitti instantly popped up on the wall by protestors. Each day, the Communist regime would paint over the wall and then each night, the grafitti would reappear. This continued for 9 years until the communist regime fell in 1989. Today, it is call the Lennon Wall to commemorate the man who preaches Peace and Love through his song Imagine.


After leaving the wall, Amanda found her way to one of the small shops and picked up her souvenir - a garnet ring. Garnet is a gemstone unique to the Czech Republic and she found a good deal.
That basically ended the afternoon and since Jacob was really tired, we decided to give him a proper nap in the hotel (as opposed to the stroller). We still had the evening left though and were running out of things to do and see. So, we consulted Rick Steve's and the front desk and decided to go to a Hockey game. Pretty cool right? I mean seeing a hockey game in the former Soviet Block, how cool is that? It was easy to get to the game and it was a lot of fun. There was a huge riot police presence in the area and that was a little creepy. But, other than that, it was a totally unique experience.

That was our last night and ended our time in Prague. Our flight on Christmas Eve left at 6:50am, so a 4am wake-up call came early. But, the upside is we didn't get into any scuffles with the cab driver after a prenegotiated fee. :)
Prague is definitely a city we would recommend to visit. We think it would be best in the spring or summer as it is more about enjoying the atmosphere than it is about seeing specific sights - i.e. avoid rainy seasons. On the other hand, the Christmas market and small crowds were huge plusses, so a Christmas visit is also good timing.

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Part 42: Pre-Christmas events in Holland

There were several "Christmas Events" in Holland. It started 2 weeks prior with a party at the American Woman's Club of the Hague. Our friends Rachel and Ben hosted another great party. We all decorated cookies and ate lunch. Liam, Ben and Rachel's son, was especially talented at the decorations.

Afterwards, Amanda, Jacob, and I headed off to The Hague for some shopping. While only a few kids (6) showed up, it was still a great starter for the holiday season.

The next step was just 1 week prior to Christmas and it involved what Amanda and I believe was the start of a very successful career: Jacob's Christmas Concert. He is clearly a budding talent. To be honest though, there were about 15 other sets of parents that thought the same about their child.

I took the morning off from work and joined Amanda for the concert. It was pretty cute. The kids pulled off an excellent rendition of Jingle Bells (complete with bells to rattle) and all wore nifty green santa hats (I don't know who chose the color).

The most interesting part of this day was watching the parents. The room was packed with about 1/3 kids and 2/3 parents. Every parent had a camera in one hand and a camcorder in other. Each one wore a grin three miles wide and were trying to make eye contact with their kiddo for a quick wave.

There were a couple kids that couldn't handle the stress and melted down in mid-performance. The remaining, including Jacob --- one of the youngest in attendence, pulled through to make a great performance.

During December, Jacob would come home with various Christmas related crafts. The one shown below is especially nice. Our little angel.